Sunday, April 27, 2014

Travel Advice.

This is a departure from my normal story line, but I was asked for advice on traveling to S.E. Asia. I will take this opportunity to help alienate other cultures and maybe even thoroughly piss off my in-laws.

I took my first trip to Indonesia back in 2006. I did research on how to travel, how to be sure to not return to the USA in a near death state, and what to expect from other cultures in terms of social constructs and customs.  Largely that information turned out to be misleading if not outright incorrect.  Here is my take on visiting countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, Taiwan, and China.

This first thing I did was to look up information about foreign countries on U.S. Government websites like http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/go.html. It was recommended that I register my trip with the feds. I did so and immediately started getting emails warning me where not to go, when not to go etc. I arrived with trepidation, knowing that some Islamic extremest was waiting to gun me down. I still think it is a good idea to register, because in the event you lose your passport or run into trouble, at least the consulate will be aware of your trip and you may be able to gain an audience with them quicker if needed. I would largely disregard all warnings except those urgent matters like all Americans must leave the country due to impending wars or hostilities internally. So overall let your gut tell you when to heed the warnings.

The next thing to do is find out if you need a visa to enter the country or countries you want to visit. Some countries require a formal visa application process, others have a VOA program, (Visa On Arrival). With the VOA, you can generally step off the plane, get in line and pay cash for the VOA. Check ahead, but normally you can pay this with US currency. Note, bring new, fresh, crisp unfolded bills for this. Wrinkled money will likely be refused. I have no idea why. Many countries limit the amount of undeclared American cash you have on your person to $2000. Check ahead. I advise that you use your Visa debit or credit card anyway. When you use a local ATM, it converts from USD to local currency and calculates the currency exchange automatically so you are good to go. Make sure to alert your bank that you are traveling overseas. If you do not and they see that your card is being used out of the USA, they will block it, and you are truly hosed. Only draw the amount of cash you need for a day or two at a time while traveling. That way if you happen to get mugged, you will not lose a lot. When using an ATM ensure you log out when you are done. Broke and alone in Jakarta is no way to go through vacation, son.

Keep your card in a safe place which is safely concealed, not in a front or rear pants pocket, or inside a sock. This is where a one of those concealed pockets that hang around your neck inside your shirt may come in handy. Google "Neck Safety Pouch" for examples but the smaller the better. You do not want to have something so large that you stand out. You will become a target for theft. Money belts are not really needed, in my opinion. I traveled with a torso body wallet during my first overseas trip and I looked like a freakin idiot every time I reached deep inside my shirt to pull my papers out at customs, or when wanting to buy a drink at the various airports. It also made my belly sweat. while you are in the confines of the airports and all, your are most likely safe from being mugged. Once you get to your destination you can most likely carry what you need in that neck pouch. Purses, camera bags, and fanny packs are easy to breach with a razor blade. A skilled thief can slice open your bag, take your goods and you won't feel it, and discover it way too late.

The third thing I did was to go to the AAA website and find out where to get vaccinations. Chances are, you will need to get several before you go. DO NOT go to any travel company to get these. I recommend looking on http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/list, plugging in your destination then seeing what vaccinations are required. Next go to your local county health department office and get the shots there. It is much cheaper this way. Also make sure they set up your yellow book (vaccination record for traveling. ) Have a record of all the vaccination you have ever gotten with you when you set this up so that the physician can sign off on it. Keep it with your Visa and passport as you travel.

The fourth thing I investigated was asking seasoned travelers (my parents) on what to take. I highly recommend that you NEVER ask an elderly person what to pack in your kit. I took nearly an extra suitcase of toiletries, cleaning items like clothes lines for the shower to hang my clothes that I clean in the tub, shaving gear, bug repellent kits, flashlights, first aid kits, stand alone currency calculators, toilet seat covers (butt-gaskets) etc. Big mistake. Unless you are actually going straight to a remote area with no amenities, you can pick it all up at your destination city. Most of the stuff they recommend at the travel shops are unnecessary. There are some things that are nice to have for packing however. Individual pouches for socks, and shirts, skivvies, etc, can be helpful to organize your luggage. I recommend sturdy, hard sided luggage with wheels and a handle for lugging log distances. Get the best luggage you can afford. Cheap ones will bust open easily, or only last one trip. Make sure to get enough TSA locks to secure everything, zippers and pockets.
If you have a laptop, get a car adapter for it so you can use it on the plane. Load some  movies and music so you do not have to pay the airline for that sort of entertainment.

Here is an additional list of things I found to be helpful:

1) Bring electrical plug adapters as well at power converters. There are converters for low and high wattage. Your hair dryer may have a switch for 220, so you can just use the plug adapter.
A word of caution, if you are on layover and decide to charge your cell phone or computer, make sure that your charger is dual voltage. Sometimes the plug you see looks like what you are used to but will be 220 volts. I learned the hard way on this and blew up my phone charger in Taipei.

2) Load a couple of apps ahead of time on your smart phone. a currency converter and a local language dictionary may help. Try and have google maps installed.  If possible get your cell phone unlocked before you travel so you can use the local phone services. It is cheaper, works better than here, and keeps you in contact with your fellow travelers.

3) Airport travel is both exciting and harrowing. Check ahead on your flight schedule to ensure you have time to make connecting flights.  Security measures can throw a wrench into the works. If you fly out of LA or San Francisco, ensure you have at least two hours to get through customs.
Make sure that you get in the right lines, as sometimes airport handlers will try and guide you to the wrong place. If you have a carry on, and have already checked your luggage into the international airport, get in the line where people do not have regular suitcases. You will save at least an hour in line.
International airlines are great. Prepare to be treated like a human. For comfort, bring light loose fitting clothing, noise cancelling headphones and comfy loose shoes.

4) When you get on the plane to leave the USA, look at your fellow passengers, memorize a couple of the faces. If you get to a layover destination,  follow them to the layover waiting area. Often the airport handlers who yell instructions on where you should go have very heavy accents, and you can get confused. If you see fellow passengers in the waiting area, you most likely are in the right place.
It is ok, to ask them if you are in the right place too.


5) Take appropriate clothing for the region, Any country that is near the equator is going to be hot and humid. Take light breathable items. Try not to take items that are totally western like short cargo pants. Most male adults in S.E. Asia wear long pants. You will totally stand out if you have sandals, black socks, and khaki shorts. Just wear cotton slacks, and light breathable shoes that will not readily mildew. Keep your clothes to a minimum. You do not need to pack a fresh set of clothes for every day you are there. The hotels generally have reasonable cleaning services, a basket in your room that if you put your dirty items in, will be returned clean to you in the evening. I only had to pay about 10 dollars for 2 weeks of doing my laundry. Totally worth it. So, skip the travel iron, the clothes line and the calgon packets.

6) Make a photocopy of the first two pages of your passport and laminate it. Keep it with you. Often a hotel will require you to surrender your passport until you pay your bill. It is a security measure for them, and non negotiable. You may need the copy in case you have to engage the consulate in an emergency. 

7) Do not take toiletries, except maybe a toothbrush and a trial size toilet paper in your carry on. You should buy all this stuff at your destination. Cheaper and less baggage. You can also get clothing tailor made in many of the countries you visit. Very inexpensive, fast turn around, and it is nice to return home with well fitting items.

8) Take a water bottle with either a decent filter or get one of those ultraviolet pens for sanitizing your water. Or both. Third world counties have incredibly scary water. Always request bottled water at your destinations, or buy it in their super markets. Make sure it is sealed in plastic bottles. Don't accept glass bottles and a bottle opener. Often these are bottled locally and sealed without actually using pure filtered water. Dua tang brand comes in what appears to be a pudding snack cup but these are sealed and safe. Use sealed bottled water to brush your teeth too. Never trust tap water. It is common to get served a glass of water at a restaurant that is boiling hot. It may throw you off, but this is safe to drink, if not a bit unsatisfying. Do not ask for ice. It is scary. Most places do not filter the water in their ice machines, or get ice blocks delivered to them daily, then chip off chunks to serve. If you saw how it was delivered, off the back of a truck, dirt all over it, and some worker in flippy floppies standing on the blocks, you will understand why. If you have to have ice water, buy some bottles at the store, and put them in your hotel fridge.

9) Be careful what you eat. Street vendor food is enticing but if you get the wrong thing, like those exotic drinks served in a plastic bag, or shaved ice on the cart, expect to spend your next half day crapping your brains out. This is a two fold curse, and I will get to that in a moment. Never order salads, as they most likely are rinsed with water that is not purified nor boiled. The bacteria you ingest will come back to haunt you. Only eat fruit that you peel, or that is freshly cut in front of you.
Cooked food is generally safe. Most desserts are OK too. Cooked veggies and meets are usually safe. Do not expect to get much pork unless you are in a non Muslim country. Do not expect to find napkins at the table, as it is not customary in many places to have them. Watch what you eat. Literally. Sometimes you will find objects in your food that you are not meant to eat. Like a large chunk of ginger. It makes the food taste great, but you do not want to bite into it. I routinely forget this rule at home and it is a shock to your mouth.
Alcohol may be an issue at times too. Many hotels in Malaysia and Indonesia are Halal, which means they follow Islamic dietary laws. You can pack a couple of flasks in your luggage if needed, but it is easy to find beer at most establishments that serve international clients.

10) If possible find someone at your destination country who is an expat, or a local resident who you are acquainted with for a guide. They can take you to the best restaurants, and tourist attractions, and they may even help you to avoid being fleeced by the local vendors. Americans are considered to be very rich, and therefore are targets for sales pitches. I often would step out of the hotel or a cab and would get mobbed. There are great deals to be had, and I was willing to buy some things but I got taken advantage of at times. It was not terrible but my wife, would tell me I was an idiot for paying that much for trinkets. Bartering is the norm for street vendors, but do not try to get TOO good of a deal. Remember, these people need to eat too. Supermarkets are non negotiable. No bartering is accepted.

11) When it comes to traveling, have a trusted source. Local buses have a set price, but taxi travel is an opportunity for cheating you. Ask the concierge about hiring a local driver service for the duration of your stay. It is better than a taxi, you get a driver on demand and a local guide all in one. Well worth the cost.

12) Now, back to one of the most important things of all. Bathrooms. In S.E. Asia, you need to ensure that your lodging has a western bathroom. You do not want to use a squat toilet unless you are in reasonably good physical condition. Even western bathrooms have their own sets of surprises. Next to the toilet, you will often see a sprayer like you have on your kitchen sink. This is how you wipe your butt. Do your business, rinse good then use the toilet paper to dry. DO not flush the toilet paper. It will clog the systems there, and you may get charged for the repair. The little wicker basket next to the toilet is the proper mode of disposal. Do yourself a favor and do not wipe your can with the TP. Just use it to dry.
One thing to look out for when you go to the bathroom, is how the whole toilet seems to be covered in little drops of liquid. Many people in Indonesia like to take the sprayer and rinse the toilet, and even walls and floor after they have eliminated. It is unsettling to the uninformed, but know that it is clean and you can even spray it down and wipe it dry with some tp, if you want to be sure it is clean.

13) There are also social rules related to bathroom use. Your left hand is the "impolite" hand. It is the one you use to clean yourself in the bathroom, and therefore is not used to shake hands, serve food, to point at,  or touch anyone. I would advise watching the first half an hour of the movie "Outsourced" to get a quick primer on what behaviours are acceptable. It is not all inclusive but it is a good start.
Try hard to be respectful of local customs. You do not want to become the "Ugly American."
You are not entitled to any special treatment, and you do not have any of your American rights in these countries. Be accepting and polite, non judgemental and you should be ok.

14) Be aware of the the local religions. Islam is very much the prevailing or official religion in many S.E. Asian countries. I received  many warnings from the state department about being careful, or even vigilant against being abducted by Islamic factions. This proved to be fear mongering at best. My first day in Indonesia, I was walking with a local friend, and suddenly I heard Arabic being yelled over a loudspeaker and I knew I was about to get shot. As I prepared for a sudden and violent death, my friend casually mentioned that the local mosque was calling people to pray, something that happens 5 times a day in the Muslim faith. Later that evening, I was invited into the home of a family who owned a prestigious Muslim school. They kindly fed me dinner and made me feel welcome. Much of what I had been advised about the terror of Islam turned out to be propaganda. Do not be too complacent however, there are exceptions. Just be aware of your surroundings.

15) Respect monkeys. Hindu's usually consider them to be sacred, or even incarnations of gods, and you need to be careful. Do not fight or tease them. One, they bite. Two, they scratch. Oh, and they always win. They like shiny things you are wearing.  If they take your sunglasses, let them have it, because man, they are gone. You can also be fined for messing with them.

16) Watch out for police. They do not serve the same function as they do here in the USA. Often if you get stopped for a violation, the goal of the officer is to get a bribe, rather than issue a ticket. This is a touchy area so really stay clear of them. if you have a driver, let them deal with it, and have your wallet ready. Usually the equivalent of 10 - 15 dollars takes care of an issue. Most of the time. If you have really committed a crime, and get caught contact the US consulate ASAP.

17) Be aware that as an American, you are very spoiled by our traffic patterns. In larger cities in S.E.Asia, traffic is like nothing you have ever experienced. It is your responsibility to not get hit by a bus, scooter, car or bicyclist. Sidewalks are not always for walking by the way. They are often platforms for the street vendors to sell their wares.

18) Know drug laws. Indonesia has a death penalty for drug dealers. Malaysia will beat drug offenders with a bamboo cane. Make sure your luggage does not get tampered with, as this can happen in transit and it is a tough rap to beat if drugs are found in your bags. Get certified TSA locks for your luggage. Be careful with what you bring into a foreign country. Know the laws before you pack, just to avoid delays at customs.

That is a lot to think about but it is not all inclusive. Feel free to message me if you have specific questions. Traveling abroad is a wonderful experience, and if you are mindful, you will have a great time. Keep it safe, keep it simple.Enjoy your adventure.




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